I should start by saying a couple of
general things about the pedal. This
is a KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) design.
There is not that much to it and that
is because a lot of thought and testing
went into it. You have a pedal consisting
of a base, footboard, uprights, cam,
beater, just like any other pedal but
that is on the surface. Magnetism
drives this pedal and where it does,
is signature and key.
Let's have a look at that beautiful and
now, 3-way adjustable cam. Remember
that the older designs were not anything
like this. The link was short the cam was
fixed creating a very tight action, which
was not bad but not versatile. Now, it
is totally different.
This length is perfect and when the
pedal is depressed, it brings the cam
down and right to the point, where
you get that snap back that you have
heard me mention.
It's that slight "backwarding" that
you get with the premium pedals and
that I ALWAYS look for in a design.
Each position allows for a different
angle of that link, upon impact. One
will be more impacting and less snap.
One will be in the middle and the
other will be lighter but with
Now, this thing is is about spring-less
and magnetism. The magnets are
placed underneath the footboard
and opposite the floor-board and
at a precise angle. Using an Allen,
you can slide the magnet on the
footboard to counter the floor and
change the resistance.
It's really wild. You are on one of
nature's cushions and like nature:
it always springs back at you.
It is like a pillow. Every time, it
brakes you and picks you up and
readies you for that next stroke
and it does this through the inter-
action of these magnets: First,
the ones opposing each other
on the board and base.
These magnets are really exerting.
They push back and repel and in
that action, they cushion.
You are in control. By sliding the
magnet up top, forward and back,
you create the different resistance.
and remember that you can set the
cam for that subtle change that
for me makes the entire difference.
There is another adjustment that
can be made on the magnets and
this having to do with the ones on
the upright. This allows you to
choose how much of a repulsion
there is at that location. The
changes are subtle but no less
significant. I can't say it is easy
making these Allen changes but
once you find your spot, you are
likely good to go.
So, you get a different position for
these upright magnets. See if you
feel the need to play with these.
This felt beater took me by
surprise, I must admit. It is
very light and responsive, tele-
scoping vertically, which, I think,
is essential, as the shaft cannot
go all the way through.
That plastic is just tape to protect
it from going black from the pad.
The hoop-clamp was improved
upon. Though one-positioned,
it clamps down and releases
well. It does, however, move
a little more gradually than I
would prefer but that is minor.
You can see where your Allens
are kept, there. ^
My overall impression is that the
pedal is set to perform.
1. The materials used are sturdy.
2. The board is long enough.
3. The uprights are back enough
on the base to give that "extra"
action off impact.
4. The new cam adds to that, with
the added adjust-ability.
5. The link is long enough to add
to that "extra" action off impact.
6. The clamp has been modified
as well, now very easy to use.
7. The "tension" is easily adjusted
with the use of Allens, which are
easy to keep track of since the
magnets hold them close by but
what is more important is that you
have two magnetic systems at
work. The first system is on the
base and against the footboard.
The second is up on the uprights
and that helps get the beater
back into position (just super)
and on top of it - these are also
adjustable and I am still exploring
that and hope to write on it.
8. The footprint is nice and narrow
and allows for better setup options.
9. The new beater telescopes
vertically and you know how I
important I feel that is, with the
variable hoop-sizes, these days.
What I do not like:
1. I have always hated Allens. I
lose them all the time but there,
I will forgive Mike because he has
placed the two holes in the base
which houses the lower magnet
and here: the Allens are replaced
and always being "held onto" by
2. Changing the upright magnet
alignments are not easy. I have
to be careful to align the screw
perfectly, so as not to scratch the
block. You have to be careful.
3. I like a hoop-clamp that can
change position. This does not.
4. While I can set this up pretty
quick, I can set the Trick up faster.
Though, once it is set up, it is
sure quick enough.
So, there it is. I will amend it, as
it needs and will be happy to
answer questions about it. I
will try and get to it as I can,
as my workload has quadrupled.