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DIY stuff

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1 DIY stuff on Sun 22 Feb 2015 - 13:04

On the practical side, here's a vid I did showing some DIY drum stuff you might find useful. I'm a diehard DIYer.

I play a couple solos on the Pancake set in the Bytes forum.

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2 Re: DIY stuff on Sun 22 Feb 2015 - 17:44

Interesting... As to the sound, Too retro for
my personal taste. I like resonance and attack
this setup is tonally flat. Which is fine for those
who like that sound. I can only assume that
this works for you and that's what's important.

In that regard, KUDOS!

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3 Re: DIY stuff on Mon 23 Feb 2015 - 13:51

Very, very creative: Asaph!

I am very proud to have you here.

Great ideas and I am not surprised
at your value to Drumnetics.

Idea

Btw, I am such the Trilok fan!!

Regards,



Last edited by Admin (Pete) on Mon 23 Feb 2015 - 16:22; edited 1 time in total


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4 Re: DIY stuff on Mon 23 Feb 2015 - 15:38

Thank you, Pete. I appreciate that a great deal. More than you can know.

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5 Re: DIY stuff on Mon 23 Feb 2015 - 16:18

Don, as far as the pancakes, yeah, very staccato sounding. If I used the hydraulics or twin ply heads that sound would be more so. It's somewhat akin to the Flats and certainly Trilok's rig. For me it was an experiment, which came out well, and provides me with something to play anywhere without a lot of fuss. It's fun, too. I'll be recording with them next month. I think they'll do well.

But, yeah, I would rather have my double headed set any day.

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6 Re: DIY stuff on Mon 23 Feb 2015 - 16:36

Absolutely, Asaph.  As I said, if it works for you, then it's all good.

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7 Re: DIY stuff on Mon 23 Feb 2015 - 18:36

For sheer practicing, I like
dead drums. If you are
just working on stuff, it is
good and it seems like it is
and that is good.

Wink


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8 Re: DIY stuff on Wed 25 Feb 2015 - 16:51

Great work Asaph! You have a keen eye for design in the sense of how your drums layout down to the minute details going into the hardware - beautiful. I can see your talent for building these drums but have you considered further research into the acoustical end of your work (e.g. sound permeation and projection in relation to specific materials used)? I would think that aspect of drums in and of itself can be very complicated. But I know nothing of the science of sound except for knowing what I want from a drum.

Just a thought for what it's worth; Have you considered adding depth to the table that the drums are nestled into? That may bring more resonance and depth? Not sure just a thought. I love the cymbals.

But other than that - Fantastic work!!! alien  You are a true artist in my books!

Shalom,
Rac

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9 Re: DIY stuff on Thu 26 Feb 2015 - 9:21

Thank you very, Rac. I appreciate the kind words.

I was asked at a builders site about adding depth to the shells extending from the bottom of the 'table.' There are a few things to consider about depth.

Volume is accentuated to a certain degree with the depth of a shell (Phil Collins swears by the use of concert toms live) until a point where the depth begins to choke the volume and make things sound like a downward tube, not an expansive sounding drum, which is why you would see cut-away shells on the multi-tenor rigs of drum corps instruments. The max effect of depth would be tube drums, themselves, as with those Billy used, or like Simon Philips and others today. I've made tube drums myself. Very unique sound, and I made mine of PVC and even Sona tubes (concrete tubes) covered with wood veneer.

Because the sound of a drum is mostly the tensioned head, adding more inches above the table would not increase volume much but, it would create a situation where i would have to cut the shells at an angle or be forced to lower the table to get at them correctly, which would change the snare height, then create a problem for my knees striking the table, etc. Everything dominoes with a rig like this. Same would happen if I added shell length underneath. The bass drum would be effected because of the frame size. It would not fit in. Collision would take place. I could use a regular bass drum but, then I defeat the purpose of the concept. As it is I may still increase the bass drum size to a 24". But, for the purpose of just practicing, or even playing out with it and having it mic'd, the 18 is okay. I would just rather have the feel and flex of a 24" or 26" head.

The idea, like I said, was the Arbiter Flats and Trilok Gurtu's rig, though they both employ independent snare drums. The current "Flats" are set up like a regular drum set. I wanted to avoid separate pieces to carry around.

They sound very loud, as is, as single headed drums generally are. You can feel a wallop in your gut standing in front of the set and feeling the impact of the bass drum. To that degree it is anything BUT a silent, or less loud drum set for practicing, as you can hear in the videos.

Now if you mean creating depth to the table, itself, like a sound box or acoustic guitar body, that would be quite interesting. I would have to use a thinner plywood or the weight increase would be substantial. Unfortunately thin plywood is rarely flat plywood. That would create the need for blocks inside the box to make sure the unit is perfectly flat throughout. Then there is the matter of squeezing the lug nuts up into just 1/4" plywood. It could work but, I wonder about the stress on the lug nut points for a cranked down snare drum. 1/2" plywood would be better. That would leave me the same weight as one 3/4" table. The there is setting the unit on the cymbal stands. I'd have to increase the length of the threaded stem to reach through the box to be tightened down.

Not a bad idea, Rac. I may look into that. I would have to use veneer layers to enclose a rounded shape, like the kidney shape on this current rig. Straight angles, like my first rig, could use regular wood. I could even use sheet metal, which would certainly increase the volume of the box some. I have no idea what kind of overtones I'd be dealing with. Might be a train wreck but, in concept it's a cool idea. One problem would be the back end shape and my knees hitting the body, unless I really cut some shape further into the table to compensate for that. Now that I think about it Trilok's later rigs may have been enclosed in a box like that. I'll have to check some pictures.

My ultimate would be an aluminum table. The cost would be outrageous though.

The hardware stuff, and cymbal modification, is just in me to do as a diehard DIYer and experimental sound lover. A saber saw goes a long way to experimenting with sound. Idea

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10 Re: DIY stuff on Fri 27 Feb 2015 - 4:54

even Sona tubes (concrete tubes) covered with wood veneer.
Asaph
___________________________________________________

Concrete tubes is an amazing concept not sure what they may sound like. Three months ago I went on a mission to Kenya Africa. We were in communities where homes and churches were literally constructed out of mud combined with cow dung. Yes, you heard me correctly here. To my surprise, these mud huts, as they are respectively referred to, were solid and more than survived intense storms and strong winds. One afternoon when no one was around I actually laid my fist into a wall and nearly broke my knuckles...it was as hard/dense as concrete!!

Not being cocky here;
Having said that what does mud/dung have to do with construction of drums? Well, just that. Have you consider using this stuff being that you mentioned concrete for drums? Not sure as to how well they would hold to the flexibility of tension say as in the tuning rods. Just a thought and if you need to flush the idea that's find as well.

Kenya Drums;
I also was invited to play their home-made African drum. It's about 3 thirds the size of a brazillian conga. It's shell are made from scrap metal with sections that are wooden. The heads are made from the hide of the billy goat. Ohhhh, my, they sounded incredible! The skins are then tied from ends that are tightly rolled. The rope then extends into an interesting triangular patterns that drapes around the shell of the drum proceeding to the bottom-end. The sound totally permeate the entire space of those mud churches with a low thundering sound. And if you attack (hit) the outer edges you get a real tight sound. Had a chance to see a young girl (19 yrs.) who was a master at playing them in her native style. She blew me away really....Incredible!

Thanks for sharing your knowledge on drum making...very interesting.

Rac

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11 Re: DIY stuff on Fri 27 Feb 2015 - 5:24

I believe DW makes a concrete snare. I don't know what they use for a mold.

Sona tubes, being a compressed paper product, are very light, and thin. I put a few layers of lacquer inside the tubes and on the batter edge to harden them up, and then the rosewood veneer outside with finish. The sound was not as sharp as PVC because I couldn't really get a sharp bearing edge on them and they did not have the density but, they sounded pretty good. I had 5 on a stand I rigged up - 6x12, 18, 24, 30 and 36. Plus I made a 10x24 that was on legs. It had more of a low-pitched, conga drum-type sound.

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12 Re: DIY stuff on Fri 27 Feb 2015 - 15:27

I am interested in how you cut down cymbals. What tools etc..
I am interested in creating things to hit like the ribbons but more like this galvanized metal like this but old cymbal chunks could be cool in all shapes and sizes.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZG415G/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687462&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B008M0B162&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=11K5C4JKV148KFX1TATY

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13 Re: DIY stuff on Sat 28 Feb 2015 - 23:53

Interesting resonators.

I simply cut down cymbals with a saber saw, good metal cutting blade. Bronze is pretty soft. Then I either take the cymbal to a grind wheel to lightly take out imperfections in the cut, or if the cut is on the line I take a good bastard file and begin smoothing down the edge. From a rough bastard I go to smoother files until the edge is glass smooth. Done.

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