The Trick Pro-1 Bigfoot (Longboard)

This photo shows the end-result of retro-fit. You can
see the 'bigfoot' or 'longboard', now. Only the foot-
board was changed but now, we have so much more
control over it than before, with the old heel-plate etc.

Before leaving this photo, you can see the screw that
holds the beater is on the inside and that is something
of a hassle, if you do not have a long shafted key. I
have no idea why they decided on this. That does not
make any sense to me. Oh, well.



This shows you the old heel-plate, which was changed
from and note that there are no screws on the top. If
you have this one and want to alter it, you can do it,
without changing the entire base. Otherwise, you must
change all of it.



This one shows the screws on the bottom, which are
concerned for the retro-fitting.



Another view, from the bottom of the screws. You can
see the two screws used for the longboard.



This is important, as it shows the Allen-screws that can
be loosened, allowing for the pedal to be moved away
or towards the hoop/kick-drum. This also allows for
unusual responsive action, with beater angles set at
greater than 90-degrees.



This shows you the pull-down lever's three options,
changing the height of the foot-board but there is more
to this than meets the eye. That lower one seems like
it's not needed to me but you should try it to see for
yourself if you like/need it. The top one can get really
radical, if you have set the cam at my settings.

Trick isolates this feature, emphasizing its significance
in determining the length of the stroke. This is absol-
utely true. What I have found, however, is that the
footboard adjustment made, here, changes the
action MORE than that made by just simply moving
up and down the cluster. In other words, these are
not independent adjustments that are being made.



This will refer to the hoop-clamp, which was mentioned
earlier in the thread and a good point was made. It
really does clamp down hard. To get by this, if you are
concerned about it, adhese a rubber membrane to
the clamp OR the hoop to protect it.



Here is the radical dial-settings that I recommend. It
is not something that you would go for, according to
their recommended range (Look closely). At the stores,
you will likely find the dial around 0 to +1. You want
to experiment with this aspect of the pedal and NOT
the spring tension. That's not the signature.

Here, at my settings, the pedal is actually pushing
back at you, when you are about to make contact
with the head, creating an unusual spring-type of
action, allowing for easier multiple strokes.

http://thediametrixletter.com/trick1.mp3



This picture shows something of an issue, when you
setting the dial at my recommended setting. You must
make sure that you are not hitting the hoop-clamp,
below. It is worth moving it back further but only
as needed as the further away the pedal is from the
head contact, the better. We want slightly more than
a 90-degree beater angle, at contact. Try working
at 92 or 93-degrees and if there is too much against
you, knock down the spring tension.



This shows the lever's angle, at 90-degrees.



The Detonator is telescopic and a great innovation,
allowing full beater contact, whether the beater is
at 90-degrees or not BUT if that edge hits your shin,
it will gash it open and so...



...You can use a pencil-eraser to cap it for protection. But
better yet, go to your neighborhood hardware store and
pick up a package of National Door-Stop Tips.

The product number is: N181-404 V23OT

Very cool, Pete. So what do you think of the pedal now that you have the "Bigfoot" footboard?

Also, how much are the single pedals going for?

Slam.

Well, I have had the pedal for a bit, now
and have taken it out. It is the best pack-
age on the market. It has everything cov-
ered or, at least, addressed that could be
an issue for us.

I think I could make changes to it that I
think would make it even better but I am
always saying things like that.



Again, the longboard is the ONLY design,
as far as I am concerned. You can only
get that action, down at the base of
the footboard. Add to that the other
cool features, of which I pointed out
and it is the most complete pedal.

What would I change, if I could? I could
write about that. Maybe I will. I will come
back to this, perhaps later, today.

One thing that should change and
I think I am writing them about it
is the 3-ring pulldown-lever. The
last ring interferes, with the hoop-
distancing mechanism, when used.
Even the 2nd one does. I would
consider machining a curved one
or one that was 'L'-shaped. It
increases pullback, too.

Another thing is the beater is
not truly independent either. Not
like the Boa.

Another thing is the dials take a
lot of tightening to hold. It is not
easy to make changes without a
little bit of pain.

Finally, the screw used to tighten
the beater is on the more massive
side of the mechanism and too
close to the surface of it. A real
pain in the ass. Should be on the
opposite side.

Pete,

Knowing how passionate you are about your pedals, It wouldn't surprise me at all if changes to the Trick and the Boa were made strictly on the problem points you have brought to they're attention.

I'll be looking for some changes.

Slam.

I hope to save everyone the
wear and tear and POCKET-
BOOK CHANGE that it takes
to keep up, with the stuff
these guys are trying to PR
us, with. They make so much
money off us.

If I can help isolate key areas
on a pedal for us, we can look
over most of the junk out there.

I hope to help.

Don,

I doubt Trick listens to me as much.
They are very proud of the product
and they have that right.

I am not in agreement, with every
part of the design but what pedal
will satisfy every single aspect re-
lated to our needs?

In your e-mail to me, you mentioned
that video, showing the pedal, at
a recent show. Here it is. It is a
good video, showing the pedal
and their attempt at competitive
pedal, price-wise:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5j1K2EYP1I

He calls the view of the stroke-
cluster's role in changing the height
of the footboard a 'mistake'. I think
that is not the best way to refer to
it. The fact is that the stroke-clusters
and what he refers to as the height
adjusters, are not fully independent
of each other, when it comes down
to the change in action that takes
place, when they are changed.

As a matter of fact, I have found that
the footl-board adjustment feat-
ure does more to interfere with
the action, when changed, than
the stroke-cluster, when changed.
Specifically, what is changing, when
the footboard adjustment is moved,
is the angle of linkage pulldown.

I think it more accurate to say that
these two features relate to each
other and if anyone gets this pedal
and want to chat about it, I will be
glad to help them out with it.

Regards,

Yes, Pete,

But I must say that what I get out of this is, you can actually change the stroke cluster and then put the footboard back to any desired height, at least that which is allowed by the footboard height adjuster.

So from my view if you shortened the stroke by rasing the footboard using the stroke Cluster but liked the original height before the adjustment, you can put it back with the actual footboard adjustment. And it looks to me like the actual pulldown lever angle only changes radically when pulled way back to a position that it likely would not be used in anyway.

I don't know, Pete.... I know you're very serious and passionate about your pedals. But it seems to me that you're being a little nit picky.

In your defense ( not that you need it) though, You have the pedal and I don't, so you get the benefit of the doubt.

D.

It's all about what you like, Don.
I know you have the Axis-A. The
reason why it is such a great de-
sign, in my opinion, is because
of that angle of pull-down.

You really have to experience it.
I am particular about it because
I have experienced the options.
What can I say?

Incidentally, as far as cam-design,
that VDL is still the simplest and
most effective design.

Regards,

Admin (Pete) wrote:It's all about what you like, Don.
I know you have the Axis-A. The
reason why it is such a great de-
sign, in my opinion, is because
of that angle of pull-down.

You really have to experience it.
I am particular about it because
I have experienced the options.
What can I say?

Incidentally, as far as cam-design,
that VDL is still the simplest and
most effective design.

Regards,

You have and you use the pedal, Pete. I cannot argue with that experience. I had access to the pedal for about a half hour. You read my review. Outside of the one flaw that I pointed out with the linkage clamp, which they have since fixed, it is to date the best pedal I have ever used, and that's saying a lot when considering the mighty Axis.

I said back then that if this pedal stands the test and rigors of time, then it will be the stuff, and that seems to be the case. If there is one thing that is keeping this pedal from running away from the competition, it's probably the price. That along with the understanding that you really don't NEED a pedal like this. It's more like having a Ferrari or a Lamborghini... The most exilirating drives in town..... but not everyone cares (or can afford) to drive like that.

I'm a simple guy. It either works or it doesn't. Bells and whistles not withstanding.

Don.

Well, THAT, it is, Don.

It is a great pedal. No doubt.

I just want you to get every-
thing that you can get out of
it is all. I mean, after all, the
pedal goes for the price of a
drumset, in some cases.

Regards,

I just want you to get every-
thing that you can get out of
it is all. I mean, after all, the
pedal goes for the price of a
drumset, in some cases.

I feel you, Pete! Loud and clear!

This was part of my point with the
Ferrari and Lamborghini. Some of these
cars can go for the price of elaborate
homes.

Like the cars, the prices of some of this
drum equipment is a bit ridiculous if you
want to be truthful about it.

But the other side of that coin is the best
is never cheap.

I truly appreciate all your efforts, Pete.

Thanks, man.

D.

I will definitely getting the
Twin for the Trick Longboard.
I just have had other expenses.

I have been working with the
Axis A Longboards and Eliminator
Twins, while I have been wait-
ing and I like them both, though
they are so different.

Regards,

Looks like the Trick can easliy convert to a cocktail pedal . . . please advise . . .

No need to respond, I just found out from Trick it will convert to cocktail in 30 seconds. Nice.

Jo Jones in '75; recent precious upload:


Jeff Hamilton in '75 has that wow factor:


Almost makes me wanna take up ukulele. Well, in fact, I DO wanna take up ukulele!

Been playing the Trick Longboard,
today and man, I must say that it
is just an unbelievable pedal.

The action is only rivaled by the Boa
and Axis pedals but when you stack
them up, the Trick takes it. It is so
comfortable and with that longboard,
you just slide on that like it's satin.

It's really beautiful.

Regards,

Yeah, Pete,

Once all the tallys are in and the money has been spent, at the end of the day, the Trick Pedal is THE one.

I definately plan on gettin one!

I do believe they are still way
up there, price-wise.

I am anxious to see the new
Boa-Pedal fixes and am inter-
ested in the direct-drive pedal
from Drumnetics.

I do believe they are still way
up there, price-wise.

Likely so, Pete. But after figuring out which bells and whistles are there and which ones aren't, at the end of the day when the pedal is connected to the drum hoop and played and it makes you look up and say that this is clearly the best pedal I have ever used, then I guest that's what really counts. The problem I personally saw with Boa was they were trying to keep cost down. This is why the pedal is under the "Pacific" banner. Understand that this is DW's LOWER line!

In many if not most cases such as this, cutting cost tends to go hand in hand with cutting corners. It doesn't surprise me that you discovered the flaws you did.

I'm curious to see how this unit will be marketed and what price it will go for after the fix(es).

Don.

Since i like to use a double pedal on a single bass I priced the Trick Bigfoot with the longboard. Best price I could find was $770 with free shipping. As you said Pete, that's pretty steep, and is the price of some drumsets.

I've been using a Pearl double pedal that I bought back in the late 80's to replace my Zalmer Twin that was stolen when my trap case was robbed from my house. If I recall I paid around $200 for it. I've been checking to see what model it is because it's certainly before the Eliminators came out. There is no name or model # anywhere on it except for the Pearl name. I've even tried to find out thru the Pearl site,or on one of their forums, but their back catalog only goes back to 2002.

It's chain driven with springs for the tension adjustments and it still works pretty well. I think it might be the first double pedal Pearl produced. The beater for the remote pedal is in a Z shape. If you know somewhere that I might find out what model I have, I'd appreciate it. Thanks, TED

I'll post some photos since a picture is worth 1000 words'



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Not sure why the first picture didn't come out. Here it is again, so you can see the beaters . Peace, TED


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Very cool and actually quite a
design, there, for that time.

Thanks for posting these, Ted!

Regards,

any ideas as to what model they might be ? peace, TED

Honestly, I do not know, Ted.
Before my time, surely. I was
a single-pedal man until I saw
Virgil play the drums.

You know... What looks so cool
about that design is that it looks
like you can use it on other kicks.

Regards,

You know... What looks so cool
about that design is that it looks
like you can use it on other kicks.

????!!!